A City Once Mired in Conflict Repairs its Reality and its Image
HANGING OUT at the mall. That’s how thousands of Zamboaguenos spend their weekends these days. You see them buying groceries or strolling along the corridors with children in tow. Often elderly men gather in groups to sip coffee while loudly discussing the news of the day.
The malls are so crowded that finding a place to park on
Sunday afternoon is akin to navigating traffic at Los Angeles International
Airport. But they do it because they can. And because most of the malls are
brand-spanking new.
David Haldane is an award-winning journalist, author, and broadcaster with homes in Joshua Tree, California, and Northern Mindanao, Philippines. His latest book, A Tooth in My Popsicle, is available on Amazon. This column appears weekly in the Manila Times. |
In fact, Zamboanga City’s economy is the fastest growing on
the Zamboanga Peninsula, according to the City Development Council. Last year,
it reached an all-time high of P139.47 billion, dramatically up from the
pre-pandemic level of P125.05 billion. And much of that can be seen in the many
malls opened since 2015, with another major opening scheduled later this year.
Al Jacinto, a long-time friend I recently visited there,
attributes Zamboanga’s flowering abundance largely to the harmony achieved by
the 2014 Bangsamoro peace agreement that provided the framework for what
eventually became the Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao.
“Lots of Muslims came to Zamboanga from neighboring islands
with money to invest,” says Jacinto, a seasoned journalist who’s spent decades
covering the region for this and other newspapers. “Inevitably, the city grew.”
Indeed, Zamboanga’s population of 977,000—a 1.77 percent
increase from 2023—is now nearly 40 percent Muslim, up from 30 percent when I
first visited there two decades ago. My most vivid memory of that trip is
interviewing a woman in a house pierced by hundreds of bullet holes from a
nearby shootout that had killed 30 Muslim rebels.
“My kids have never been here because they’re too scared,”
explained Susan Camins Sanz, a Zamboanga native who’d returned to her hometown
after 34 years in California where she’d raised a family. “This is my home. You
can’t let fear rule your life.”
Fear had nonetheless inflicted major damage. Absent the
tourism that once sustained the city, Zamboanga had become something of a ghost
town in which residents kept their distance and streets brimmed with beggars.
As one of the few foreigners there in 2003, I stayed mostly at my hotel,
closely watched by armed security guards. And always followed the advice of
local friends who warned me never to go out alone.
“When I visited Zamboanga City in the 1990s,” an American
friend recently confessed, “it was as if it wasn’t part of the Philippines.” He
doesn’t visit any more, he said, because his Filipino wife won’t let him. In
fact, he says, he’d like to make the trip, but “if we were captured and
beheaded, I’d die of shame for having so stupidly ignored everyone’s advice and
common sense.”
Indeed, that “common sense” persists to this day. Waiting to
board my flight at the airport two weeks ago, I ran into another foreigner who
described my, uh, testicles as “big ones” upon discovering where I was going.
“I sure wouldn’t go there,” he confidently assured me.
But I went anyway and am extremely glad I did. Because what I
saw can only be described as inspiring. A brand-new seaside Boulevard teeming
with street vendors selling halal food to people who’d probably never tried it.
A pleasant array of women wearing hijabs among those with their hair blowing
free. And dinners at Muslim-owned restaurants with nary a pork dish on the
menu.
“The restaurants shut down during Ramadan,” warned Jacinto,
referring to the Muslim holy month of fasting.
My earlier visit to Zamboanga culminated in a Los Angeles
Times piece chronicling the journey of 1,700 former Zamboaguenos returning from
around the globe “to show the world that it’s safe to go [home],” an organizer
explained.
What he was trying to tell us then may finally be true now.
(David Haldane. First appeared on The Manila Times.)
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